Catskill Autumn Part 1

During the first week of October I traveled down to the Catskills with my wife and angling partner, Deanna. This was her first visit to some of the famous rivers that flow within the "charmed circle" that Cecil Haecox described decades ago. Roscoe, Trout Town USA, would serve as our headquarters and we planned to fish the Willowemoc, Beaverkill and one of the Delaware branches over the course of a quick trip.

Before hitting the water on the first evening we had the need to quench our thirst at the Roscoe Brewery in honor of our dog, Roscoe. It was a fun diversion and is well worth the visit for any angler who has a taste for craft beer in a casual and comfortable atmosphere. After the long drive, a couple pints were well earned and equally well enjoyed. But the river beckoned.

While the sun was beginning to set in the west, we drove along old Rte.17 and took a look at a couple of the famous pools of the Beaverkill. Even after 45 plus years of angling the heart still speeds up just a little when driving along a trout stream. To stop and look at the boulder strewn Hendrickson Pool brings one back in time. Deanna, used to the smallish Battenkill, was impressed by the size of the "Big Beaverkill" even though its flows were severely reduced by the drought we have been experiencing this fall.

A rare view of Cairns Pool with no angler present

With nothing happening at Hendrickson's, we made our way down to Cairns Pool, an enormous pool often crammed with anglers. On this evening there was not another soul on the water. When a couple fish began to rise sporadically we decided to get our waders wet. That we didn't raise a fish didn't really matter, our adventure had begun. It was time for dinner. With Roscoe largely shut down we settled in at the "world famous" Roscoe Diner. The chocolate milkshake was the highlight of the evening.

The next morning found us motoring up to Dette Flies in Livingston Manor. On the way it was exciting to see Harry and Elsie Darbee's house still standing. I often reminisce about walking in there with awe as a youngster. I still possess a dry fly cape purchased from the Darbee's. The newspaper stuck to the skin on the back of the neck is a confirmation of the neck's authenticity.

Anyone going to the Catskill's should absolutely visit Dette Flies. There are several excellent shops in Roscoe and Livingston Manor, but Dette's stands out. The selection of dry fly capes is excellent, the fly bin is full of locally tied patterns, and it is simply a fun place to spend time. The advice is also first rate.

Our first stop was to a stretch of water recommended to us on the Willowemoc. With water levels being low the challenge was to find water with sufficient depth AND flow to be able to present a fly effectively. The "Willow" is a beautiful stream, intimate in size and pleasant on the eyes. With good advice in hand, we were able to locate a nice run or two that met our needs. In short order we were casting large Isonychia patterns with the goal of drawing a fish to the surface.

Working an inviting run on the Willowemoc

Despite a steady breeze and bright sunshine, we settled into an attractive spot with a bit of a wind break. I ambled downstream while Deanna worked an attractive run. Try as I might, no fish were tempted but as I headed upstream I saw Deanna's rod bent and a fish jumping at the end of her line. In short order she brought to hand her first Catskill trout, a small wild brown trout with brilliant colors.

Our next stop brought us to the Beaverkill. Two anglers were parked at the head of Cairns, so we picked our way up Horse Brook Run, normally a fast moving and difficult to wade piece of water. The only fishable water on this day appeared to be a run that flowed tight to Old 17 about 100 challenging yards upstream. Though the flows were low, picking one's way across the big rocks proved testing. After more than a few stumbles I was finally able to get to this piece of sweet water and work a fly through the thigh deep flows. I was rewarded with one take, a small rainbow that wiggled off before coming to hand. Meanwhile, Deanna took a tumble and baptized herself in the Beaverkill. Despite my gentlemanly offer to return back to our lodging for a change of clothes, Deanna insisted on soldiering on, so we got back in the fish mobile and took a cruise down the Beaverkill.

A much-reduced Horse Brook Run on the Big Beaverkill

The wind continued to blow, and the sun shone brightly. Not a great day for bugs. Stops here and there offered slow water and little activity. Finally, we found ourselves in one of the last pools on the Beaverkill before the river enters into the East Branch of the Delaware. We stared at the water intently and I thought I saw a few rises upstream. We got in the water and made our way upstream, noting a parade of small (size20) sulfur-colored duns on the water. The persistent wind seemed to not be impacting one section of the pool. That is, until we were within about 20 yards of where we needed to be. This blustery day was giving us no breaks and soon we were headed back to the car and contemplating dinner.

We made one final stop at the Ben Gray Pool and noticed two things: the wind was rapidly dying down and there was only one angler present in the water. He welcomed us in and we went a polite distance above him. Soon, the rise forms of several trout could be seen and a number of size 14 cream colored spinners in the air. The rises were of the head and tail variety and it was clear that a couple of these fish were of some bulk. Deanna was quickly into a very good fish that ran hard and managed to shred the leader on one of the many sharp rocks that peppered the bottom of the pool. Perhaps a big Delaware brown trout making it's spawning run upriver.

With no further success and a fast setting sun, it was time to get back to Roscoe and find a place to eat. Soon enough we had settled in at Raimondo's, a couple beers in hand and soon enough, the catch of the day (pictured below) was presented to us.

My version of a grip and grin shot!

Thus, the first day of our brief Catskill adventure drew to a close. Next up, a drift down the main stem of the Delaware River.